Somssi by Jihun Kim

Verdict

If you are weighing up a high-end Korean counter experience in London against the city's more established fine-dining rooms, Somssi by Jihun Kim makes a case worth hearing. Situated beneath the Mandarin Oriental Mayfair on Hanover Square, this is not the obvious first name that comes up in conversations about London's leading tables — and that works in your favour. The 14-seat marble counter is intimate, the cooking is precise and grounded in quality produce, the service carries genuine warmth rather than formal distance. For food-focused diners who want refinement without the stiff atmosphere that sometimes accompanies a big-name room, this is worth booking.

The Experience

Take the spiral staircase down from the Mandarin Oriental Mayfair and the tone shifts immediately. The room feels considered rather than showy: a marble counter at the centre, a kitchen team visible and engaged, a pace that is unhurried. The ambient energy sits closer to focused attention than buzzy dining room noise, which makes it a better fit for a conversation-led meal than venues where the sound level climbs after 8 PM. If you are coming for a celebration or a dinner where the table talk matters as much as the food, that controlled atmosphere is a genuine asset.

The cooking draws on Korean technique and applies it with the kind of discipline you expect from a hotel kitchen operating at this level. Dishes like ganjang lobster demonstrate the approach: layered flavours, clean execution, produce that earns the attention. The team describe each course with evident enthusiasm, which adds to rather than interrupts the meal. For the explorer-type diner who comes with questions and wants context alongside the food, this format rewards engagement.

The counter format — 14 seats around a single marble bar, means this is not the venue for a large group celebration. It is calibrated for parties of two to four who want to watch the kitchen work and engage with what they are eating. If your group is larger, or if you want the flexibility of a conventional table with a full à la carte menu, you would be better served looking elsewhere in the Mayfair area.

Booking and Timing

Booking here is rated easy relative to London's most competitive fine-dining rooms. You do not face the weeks-long queues required for a table at CORE by Clare Smyth or the planning exercise that The Ledbury demands at peak times. That said, a 14-seat counter has zero slack, every seat matters, so booking at least one to two weeks ahead is sensible for weekday evenings, further out for weekend dates or occasions with a fixed date. Do not assume availability on the day; the counter fills without the overflow options a larger room provides.

The Mandarin Oriental Mayfair setting means the surrounding infrastructure is strong: if you are staying in the hotel or combining the dinner with drinks elsewhere in Mayfair, the logistics are direct. For visitors to London pairing the meal with a broader stay, see our full London hotels guide and full London bars guide for options nearby.

Practical Details

Somssi by Jihun Kim sits within the Mandarin Oriental Mayfair at 22 Hanover Square. The counter seats 14, which is the entire dining room, there is no secondary seating area. Smart dress is a reasonable expectation given the hotel context and price positioning, though the room does not carry the stiff formality of London's older fine-dining institutions. Arrive ready to engage with the meal rather than treat it as background dining. For dietary requirements, contact the hotel directly ahead of your visit; a kitchen operating at this level of precision will almost certainly accommodate with advance notice, but do not leave that conversation until arrival.

Pearl booking difficulty: Easy. Reserve one to two weeks ahead for weekday evenings; further in advance for weekends and special dates.

How It Compares

See the comparison section below for how Somssi by Jihun Kim sits against London's other high-end dining rooms.

More in London and Beyond

If you are building a broader London dining itinerary, our full London restaurants guide covers the range from neighbourhood spots to multi-Michelin rooms. For fine-dining counter experiences outside London, Moor Hall in Aughton, L'Enclume in Cartmel, and Waterside Inn in Bray represent the depth available across the UK. For international comparisons at the counter-dining format, Le Bernardin in New York City and Lazy Bear in San Francisco are useful reference points for what precision counter cooking looks like at the highest level elsewhere. You can also explore London experiences and London wineries through Pearl for a fuller picture of what the city offers.