Wayan

Verdict: The Indonesian brunch option SoHo was missing

If you're comparing Wayan to the standard SoHo weekend brunch options, the choice isn't close. Most Spring Street restaurants at this price point deliver solid but familiar territory. Wayan delivers an Indonesian-French menu from Cédric Vongerichten that holds a Michelin Plate (2024) and landed at #170 on Opinionated About Dining's Casual North America list in 2024. For a first-timer wanting something more interesting than eggs Benedict in a crowded downtown room, this is the booking to make.

What to expect on arrival

Wayan opened with a clear atmospheric identity and has kept it. The room runs loud and energetic from the moment weekend service kicks in at 11:30 am. Warm teak paneling, live plants, candles give the space a density that works in its favor during the day, when natural light softens what becomes a full party by evening. The bar area at the front is close-quartered and noisy; the dining room in the back follows the same energy. If you are hoping for a quiet weekend catch-up over a long brunch, this is not the right room. If you want a lively, high-energy SoHo Saturday with food that rewards attention, it absolutely is.

First-timers should know that Saturday and Sunday service starts at 11:30 am, which gives you a reasonable window before the room peaks. The weekday lunch window opens at noon. Arriving close to opening is the practical move if atmosphere matters to you, both to secure a table without stress and to experience the room at a manageable volume before the afternoon crowd builds.

The menu, practically assessed

Wayan's menu sits at the intersection of Indonesian technique and French influence, which is a combination that could easily read as forced but holds together here. The OAD listing specifically cites escargot rendang with garlic-herb butter and toasted brioche, lobster noodles with black pepper butter, charred chicken lombok as dishes that deliver. The format runs across satays, seafood-led small plates, more substantial entrees, which makes the menu genuinely flexible for groups with different appetites at weekend lunch. You can graze across small plates or anchor the meal around a main.

For a brunch context, the format rewards ordering broadly. The small plates structure means two people can move through four or five dishes without the meal becoming expensive or overwhelming. The $$$ price range puts Wayan in the mid-upper tier for SoHo, but well below the city's tasting-menu circuit. The cocktail menu is noted as thoughtful and contributes meaningfully to the overall experience, which matters on a weekend afternoon when you want the meal to extend rather than end quickly.

OAD trajectory and what it tells you

Wayan's Opinionated About Dining ranking has moved from #144 in 2023 to #170 in 2024, sits at #215 in the 2025 list. The movement is worth understanding in context: OAD's casual North America list is large and competitive, maintaining a ranking inside the top 215 across three consecutive years indicates consistent execution rather than a single strong season. The Michelin Plate recognition adds a separate credential from a different evaluative framework. For a first-timer, this combination tells you the kitchen is reliable, not just occasionally impressive.

Booking and practical details

Wayan carries moderate booking difficulty by SoHo standards. Weekend brunch slots on Saturday and Sunday fill faster than weekday lunch, so plan to book at least one to two weeks ahead for weekend service. Weekday lunch from Monday through Wednesday at noon is your easiest entry point if your schedule allows it. The bar seats at the front are worth considering if you are dining solo or as a pair and want a walk-in option, though availability is not guaranteed on busy weekend afternoons.

The address is 20 Spring St, New York, NY 10012, which puts it in the heart of SoHo and easily reachable from multiple subway lines. Full hours run Monday through Sunday from midday or late morning through late evening, with Thursday, Friday, Saturday service extending to midnight for those who want to continue the evening. For the full picture on eating and drinking nearby, see our full New York City restaurants guide, our full New York City bars guide, our full New York City hotels guide, our full New York City wineries guide, and our full New York City experiences guide.

If you want to compare Wayan against the Indonesian dining options available elsewhere in the world before booking, Locavore NXT in Ubud and Cumi Bali in Singapore represent the benchmark for the cuisine internationally. Wayan is doing something distinct from both: the French-Indonesian hybridity is a deliberate editorial choice, not a concession to a Western audience.

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