Il Centro

Verdict

Book Il Centro if you are serious about Piedmontese cooking and want a Michelin-starred experience that feels nothing like a formal tasting-menu destination. This family-run restaurant in Priocca; a small Roero village between Alba and Asti; has held its one Michelin star while ranking as high as #86 in Opinionated About Dining's Classical Europe list (2023), sitting at #95 in 2025. The cooking is traditional, substance-driven, rooted in the same approach the Cordero family has maintained since 1956. If you are visiting Piedmont for truffle season or the winter fritto misto menu, this should be near the best of your list. If you want progressive Italian cooking or a theatrical tasting menu, look elsewhere.

The Restaurant

Il Centro occupies a village-centre building in Priocca that reads as a family home as much as a restaurant. The dining room has a settled, unhurried spatial quality, this is not a room designed to impress on first entry, but one that reveals itself through the meal. Tables are spaced to allow conversation, the atmosphere is quiet without being stiff, the overall scale is intimate. For a special occasion, that intimacy is genuinely useful: you are not competing with a loud room or performative kitchen theatre. The Cordero family runs front-of-house between Enrico and son Giampiero, the latter described in multiple sources as a serious wine connoisseur responsible for an ever-expanding cellar. The cellar is one of the clearest reasons to come here: a Michelin-starred Piedmontese restaurant with deep local wine knowledge and a cellar built over decades means Barolo and Barbaresco pairings at a depth most urban wine lists cannot replicate.

Elide Mollo heads the kitchen and has done so across the restaurant's modern era. The menu is anchored in Piedmontese tradition: agnolotti del plin, finanziera stew, peppers in a sweet and sour sauce appear as reference points across every review in the record. In summer, lighter fish and seafood dishes extend the menu. The most important timing decision, however, is whether you can visit between January and spring: this is when Il Centro runs its fritto misto menu, a 12-course progression of sweet and savoury dishes that has become so sought-after that booking is described as increasingly difficult. If the fritto misto is your reason to visit, plan at least several months ahead.

The wine program deserves more attention than a footnote. Giampiero Cordero's stewardship of the cellar is consistently cited across Michelin and OAD sources as one of the defining features of the experience. For a €€€ restaurant in a small Roero village, the depth and quality of the wine list positions Il Centro well above its price bracket in this specific dimension. If wine pairing matters to your booking decision, in this part of Piedmont, it should, Il Centro competes with restaurants charging significantly more per head. Pair that with the food quality and the €€€ price point, the value case is strong relative to peers at €€€€.

Practically: Il Centro is closed Monday and Tuesday. Wednesday service is dinner only (7:15 PM to 9:15 PM). Thursday through Sunday offers both lunch (12:15 PM to 1:30 PM) and dinner (7:15 PM to 9:15 PM). The lunch windows are narrow, 75 minutes is a tight service slot for a meal at this level, so arriving on time matters. For a special occasion, dinner on a Thursday or Friday offers the most relaxed pacing. Sunday lunch is viable but fills quickly given the weekend footfall from Alba and the broader Langhe region. Accommodation is available at Dimora Cordero, a guesthouse operated by the family a short walk from the restaurant. For visitors combining a meal here with a Barolo or Barbaresco winery itinerary, staying on-site removes the driving constraint and allows you to engage the wine list properly. See our full Priocca hotels guide for alternatives nearby.

Booking is hard. The fritto misto season in particular requires significant lead time. For standard service, three to four weeks minimum is a reasonable baseline, with more lead time needed for weekends and for any table of four or more. There is no online booking infrastructure visible in the venue record, which suggests reservation by phone or email through direct contact. Confirm your booking method when you plan, check whether the current menu period aligns with your dates before committing travel from outside the region.

Il Centro sits within easy reach of Alba and the broader Langhe wine corridor. Visitors building a Piedmont itinerary around food and wine can pair a meal here with Piazza Duomo in Alba, which operates at a different register entirely (three Michelin stars, more progressive technique), or with accessible Piedmontese cooking in the city at Consorzio in Turin or Osteria del Boccondivino in Bra. For more options in Priocca, or to plan around local wineries and experiences in the area, the Pearl guides cover the full picture.

How It Compares