Toklas

At ££ price point, Toklas earns that rating honestly. Set inside the brutalist landmark of 180 Strand — with its own entrance on Surrey Street, opposite the old Strand tube station — it sits one level above the street, which gives the dining room a quietly removed quality that most central London restaurants at this price cannot match. If you are looking for a special-occasion dinner that does not require a ££££ budget or a three-week booking sprint, this is where to go in WC2.

The physical space does a lot of the work here. Huge windows pull in natural light, bare concrete surfaces keep things spare and contemporary, the walls carry artworks by Wolfgang Tillmans and Ragna Bley, a reminder that Toklas is owned by the team behind Frieze art magazine. Art posters from across four decades line the wall behind the bar. None of this feels decorative for decoration's sake: the room has a clear point of view. For a date, a birthday dinner, or a lunch meeting where you want to impress without the formal weight of a white-tablecloth room, the aesthetic does the heavy lifting for you.

The terrace is the room's strongest asset when conditions allow. Wide, plant-filled, refined above Surrey Street with a partial view of the Thames, it is among the more considered outdoor dining spaces in central London. On a warm evening, a table outside here is genuinely worth requesting specifically, given that bookings are reportedly easy to secure, there is no reason not to ask.

The Food and Wine

Toklas holds a Michelin Plate (2025), which signals cooking that is technically sound and ingredient-focused without the ceremony of a starred room. The kitchen draws its name and inspiration from Alice B. Toklas, the avant-garde American food writer, takes a seasonal, Mediterranean-led approach. Dishes are concise rather than elaborate: the menu keeps a short, calendar-tuned line-up built around fresh, high-quality produce handled with restraint. Think wild sea bass crudo with honeycomb tomatoes and bottarga, rabbit saltimbocca with braised chard and Amalfi lemon, or homemade tagliatelle with Scottish girolles, garlic and parsley. The cooking is unfussy in the leading sense, it does not hide behind technique.

The wine list leans heavily into the Mediterranean basin, which is the right call for the food. There are comparatively few options under £40, which is worth knowing if you are cost-conscious, but the by-the-glass and carafe selections are described as generous. Cocktails are well-regarded too. For a wine-forward dinner where you want to stay thematically coherent from food to glass, this list rewards attention. For comparable Mediterranean wine focus in London, Oren and Bala Baya are worth comparing, though neither shares the same art-world context or terrace.

Is Toklas Right for a Special Occasion?

For a date or a celebratory dinner where atmosphere matters as much as food, yes. The combination of serious artwork, a considered room, Michelin-recognised cooking, a ££ price range is rare in central London. You are not paying for spectacle or prestige postcode premiums, you are paying for a room that has been thought through and food that earns its place on the plate. The Star Wine List White Star recognition (published January 2025) adds another data point: the drinks programme is taken seriously here, which matters on a night out where the meal is the occasion.

Where Toklas is less suited: large groups expecting a buzzy, high-energy room, or anyone wanting an extended late-night stay. The space is calm and the ethos is restrained. If you want volume and energy after 10 PM, look elsewhere. For groups after a more convivial, looser atmosphere with Mediterranean flavour, Morchella or Bellanger may suit better. And for late-night drinking with a genuine bar programme, check our full London bars guide.

Wider Context

Toklas sits in a different tier to London's destination restaurants. If you are comparing nights out at The Fat Duck, L'Enclume, or Moor Hall, Toklas is not in that conversation, nor is it trying to be. Within Mediterranean cooking in Europe, it occupies an honest middle ground: more polished than a neighbourhood trattoria, less theatrical than something like Arnaud Donckele at Louis Vuitton in Saint-Tropez or La Brezza in Ascona. For London specifically, it punches well above its price bracket. That is the case for booking it.

If you are planning a broader trip and want to map other strong options, see our full London restaurants guide, our London hotels guide, and our London experiences guide. For wine-specific itinerary planning, our London wineries guide and Peckham Cellars are worth a look. If you are also considering UK destinations outside London, Gidleigh Park in Chagford, The Hand and Flowers in Marlow, and Hide and Fox in Saltwood each represent strong overnight-trip cases at different price levels.

Quick reference: