Restaurant in Lisbon, Portugal
Michelin-starred counter dining, book early.
A Michelin-starred tasting menu restaurant in Lisbon with an open central kitchen counter and a 9 or 12-course format that moves between deep Portuguese tradition and global reference points. Awarded 75pts by La Liste 2026. Book well ahead — Thursday to Saturday fills fast. The right choice if you want kitchen-counter immersion and a menu with a clear culinary argument.
If you're deciding between Marlene, and Belcanto for a serious dinner in Lisbon, the choice comes down to what you want from the room and the narrative on your plate. Belcanto leans into theatrical history and a Chiado address; Marlene, puts you at a counter overlooking an open kitchen in a glass-fronted building by the Tagus, with a tasting menu that moves between deep Portuguese tradition and broader global reference points. Both hold a Michelin star. Both are priced at €€€€. Marlene, earns a place on your shortlist if you want that kitchen-counter immersion and a chef-driven format where the cooking tells you something specific about where the food came from — and where it's going.
The first thing you notice at Marlene, is the kitchen. It occupies the centre of the room, open on all sides, with a counter wrapping around it so that nearly every seat has a direct sightline to the pass. In a glass-fronted building next to the Lisbon Cruise Terminal on Avenida Infante Dom Henrique, the setting is waterfront-adjacent and contemporary, not the candlelit stone interiors you'll find elsewhere in the city's fine dining circuit. The architecture does something specific here: it makes the cooking the visual focus rather than the décor, and that framing is intentional.
Chef Marlene Vieira runs two tasting menus — a 9-course and a 12-course format. The editorial angle of both is consistent: Portuguese culinary tradition as the foundation, with technique and ingredients from further afield used to extend rather than replace that base. The cornbread served throughout the meal follows a recipe from Vieira's grandmother, and that detail is not incidental. It signals the approach: this is contemporary Portuguese cooking that knows where it comes from, not a menu that happens to feature cod and custard tarts as an afterthought.
The menu progression across 9 or 12 courses is structured to let that tension between the local and the wider world play out slowly. The La Liste panel, which awarded Marlene, 75 points in their 2026 ranking, specifically cited the blue lobster with green curry and seaweed as a marker of this duality , a Portuguese shellfish treated with a preparation that references Southeast Asian technique without losing its identity. That kind of course is either the point of the menu or a distraction from it, depending on what you're looking for. If you want a menu that stays strictly within the Iberian pantry, Belcanto or Feitoria may be better fits. If the cross-reference interests you, Marlene, is the more distinctive option in that respect among Lisbon's starred restaurants.
One detail worth knowing before you sit down: if your menu includes a meat course, the kitchen sends out a selection of handcrafted knives , different handles, hand-sharpened blades , and you choose your own. It's a minor ritual, but it's the kind of deliberate, tactile moment that separates a well-constructed tasting menu from one that's simply a sequence of courses. The table theatre here is purposeful rather than performative.
The restaurant sits adjacent to Zunzum Gastrobar, Vieira's more casual operation at the same address. For diners who want to return to the space at a lower price point, or who are bringing a group with mixed appetite for a full tasting menu, that adjacency is useful. The location also benefits from a large public car park at the Cruise Terminal, which matters in a city where parking near a serious dinner can become its own problem.
Marlene, opened to Michelin recognition in 2024, and the La Liste 2026 score confirms a consistent upward trajectory rather than a one-year award. For the Portuguese fine dining category specifically, that matters: the Michelin Portugal guide has become more competitive, and a first star that holds across cycles is a more reliable signal than a debut inclusion. Other starred options worth considering in Portugal include Vila Joya in Albufeira, Antiqvvm in Porto, Casa de Chá da Boa Nova in Leça da Palmeira, Il Gallo d'Oro in Funchal, and Ocean in Porches, though none of those combine a Lisbon city address with the kitchen-counter format Marlene, offers.
For explorers who track tasting menu architecture closely , the kind of diner who notices when a course is doing double duty as a flavour pivot and a conceptual statement , the 12-course format here has enough depth to reward that attention. The 9-course option is the right call if you want the experience without the full endurance commitment. Both formats are served Tuesday through Saturday from 7 PM, with the restaurant closed Sunday and Monday.
If your Lisbon itinerary allows only one high-end dinner, Marlene, competes with the leading addresses in the city. For broader Lisbon restaurant context, see our full Lisbon restaurants guide. Other options worth considering in Lisbon's mid-to-upper tier include SÁLA de João Sá, Essencial, Terroir, and Boubou's for a different register entirely. For planning the rest of your trip, our Lisbon hotels guide, bars guide, wineries guide, and experiences guide are good starting points. For a comparable counter-format tasting menu experience in a different context, Frantzén in Stockholm and FZN by Björn Frantzén in Dubai offer a useful international reference point, and The Yeatman in Vila Nova de Gaia is worth considering if your itinerary extends north.
Reservations: Book well in advance , this is a hard booking, particularly Thursday through Saturday. Demand consistently outpaces availability at Michelin-starred tasting menu restaurants in Lisbon at this price tier. Hours: Tuesday–Saturday, 7 PM–midnight; closed Sunday and Monday. Budget: €€€€ , expect tasting menu pricing consistent with other one-star Lisbon addresses. Format: Two tasting menus (9 or 12 courses); counter and table seating available. Parking: Large public car park at the Lisbon Cruise Terminal adjacent to the venue. Location: Doca do Jardim do Tabaco, Av. Infante Dom Henrique, 1100-651 Lisboa , waterfront, next to the Cruise Terminal. Dress: Smart; consistent with a Michelin-starred dining room.
At €€€€ pricing with a Michelin star and La Liste recognition (75pts, 2026), Marlene, sits at the serious end of Lisbon fine dining — and delivers enough to justify it. The open central kitchen and counter format add genuine theatre beyond the plate. If you want pure Portuguese tradition at lower cost, CURA offers a comparable commitment to local produce at a slightly more accessible price point.
Belcanto is the most direct comparison — also Michelin-starred, more formal in room and narrative, with José Avillez's cooking leaning heavier on conceptual Portuguese storytelling. CURA and Feitoria both offer tasting-menu formats with strong Portuguese identity at similar or lower price ranges. Eleven suits those who want a panoramic terrace over the Tagus with less emphasis on kitchen theatre. 50 Seconds from Martin Berasategui brings a Basque-influenced perspective for diners who want to cross outside Portuguese cuisine entirely.
Yes, particularly if the counter seat appeals to you — the open kitchen means you watch the full team at work throughout the meal, which changes the experience compared to a conventional dining room. Chef Marlene Vieira runs two formats: 9 or 12 courses, both rooted in Portuguese tradition with broader international references. The 12-course option is worth it if you want the full arc; the 9-course is the practical call for weeknights or lighter appetites.
Yes — a Michelin-starred tasting menu in a glass-fronted building beside the Lisbon waterfront is a reliable setting for a significant dinner. The knife selection ritual for meat courses adds a memorable, tactile detail that most special-occasion restaurants skip. For a more intimate, enclosed room, Belcanto or Feitoria may suit better; Marlene, works especially well if the open-kitchen energy is part of what you want.
Tasting-menu restaurants at this level routinely accommodate dietary requirements when notified at booking — flag any restrictions clearly when you reserve. The kitchen's baseline is a Portuguese-influenced tasting menu, so adaptations around shellfish or specific proteins are the most common requests. check the venue's official channels at booking time to confirm what's possible for your specific needs.
The room is built around the central open kitchen, so counter seats are not a secondary option — they are the intended format. The restaurant is inside the Lisbon Cruise Terminal building on Av. Infante Dom Henrique, with a large public car park adjacent, which removes one of the usual Lisbon dinner logistics headaches. Dinner runs Tuesday through Saturday, evenings only from 7 PM, so there is no lunch service to fall back on if your evening availability is limited.
The counter-focused layout works best for smaller groups of two to four — larger parties should contact the restaurant to discuss seating arrangements before assuming a straightforward booking. Groups of six or more may find Belcanto or Eleven easier to configure for a shared celebration, as both have more conventional dining room layouts. If a group booking is essential, confirm directly with the restaurant given the architectural constraints of the space.
Keep this venue in your Pearl passport, rate it after you visit, and track it alongside every other place you collect.
