Gouqi

The Verdict

If you've eaten at Hakkasan and wondered what Tong Chee Hwee would do with full creative control and a grander room, Gouqi answers that question clearly. This is contemporary Cantonese cooking at a high level, in a dining room that justifies the occasion, steps from Trafalgar Square. For a special dinner in central London, it earns its place at the shortlist. For a relaxed lunch before an afternoon in the area, it's arguably even better value — more space, quieter atmosphere, and the same kitchen at work.

The Space

The room sets the tone immediately. Velvet banquettes curve through the dining area, black leather booths offer more privacy, and dark wood runs throughout. Pendant lights hang from high ceilings, artwork is placed thoughtfully rather than decoratively, and private rooms sit behind curtained-off sections for those who need them. The mood is deliberately calm — this isn't a loud room that energises a crowd, it's a composed space designed for conversation and focus. For a business dinner or a celebration where the setting needs to do some of the work, that composure is a genuine asset.

Lunch vs Dinner: Where the Value Sits

The lunch vs dinner question matters here. Dinner is the showpiece, tableside-carved Beijing duck served in stages, A4 wagyu in hot-and-sour soup, and a room that fills with occasion. If you're coming once and want the full version of what Gouqi offers, an evening is the right call. That said, lunch at a restaurant of this calibre in central London typically means a quieter room, easier booking, and frequently a set menu at a lower price point than the full dinner carte. The kitchen's dim sum programme is particularly well-suited to a midday visit: the charcoal venison puffs (a signature carried over from Tong Chee Hwee's Hakkasan tenure), Ibérico char siu buns, and lotus leaf-wrapped sticky rice all hold up as a complete meal at lunch without requiring the full evening commitment. If cost is a consideration, start with lunch and return for dinner, the two experiences are complementary rather than redundant.

What to Order

Dim sum selection is the safest entry point for first-timers. The charcoal venison puffs are the kitchen's most talked-about item, gamey, layered, and technically demanding. The eel cheung fun balances silky and crispy textures in a way that requires precision. Among larger dishes, the lacquered Beijing duck is the headline: carved tableside, served in stages, and by most accounts the dish that leading represents what the kitchen is trying to do. Seafood runs through the menu with Scottish diver-caught razor clams and stir-fried scallops among the more discussed options. The wine list skews prestige and pricing is steep, but two dozen wines are available by the glass if you'd rather not commit to a bottle.

Credentials

Gouqi holds a White Star from Star Wine List (awarded February 2024), indicating a wine programme that has been formally assessed and recognised. Tong Chee Hwee spent years as executive head chef of the Hakkasan group before this project, which gives the kitchen a documented track record at scale. The restaurant ranks 638th in the Opinionated About Dining Leading Restaurants in Europe 2025 list, a data-driven guide based on aggregated critic scores. Google reviews sit at 4.5 from 430 ratings, which for a central London restaurant at this price tier reflects consistent satisfaction rather than polarised opinion.

Booking and Practical Details

Booking is rated easy, Gouqi does not appear to carry the two-to-three-month waitlists of some comparable London venues. A week to ten days of advance notice should secure a table for most dates, with weekday lunch likely the most accessible slot. The address is 25-34 Cockspur St, London SW1Y 5BN, close to Charing Cross and a short walk from Trafalgar Square. Private rooms are available for groups, curtained from the main dining area. If you're planning around the area, the full London restaurants guide covers the broader neighbourhood options, and the London hotels guide can help if you're staying nearby.

Practical Details

Explore More

For other high-end London dining, see Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, Sketch, The Lecture Room and Library, and Restaurant Gordon Ramsay. For contemporary Chinese outside London, Ling Long Shanghai is worth noting as a benchmark in its own market. Further afield in the UK, The Fat Duck in Bray, L'Enclume in Cartmel, and Moor Hall in Aughton represent the broader fine dining tier. For an international calibration point on seafood at this level, Le Bernardin in New York City is the most useful comparison. Also in the UK: Gidleigh Park, Hand and Flowers in Marlow, and hide and fox in Saltwood. Browse the London bars guide, London wineries guide, and London experiences guide for the rest of your trip.