Restaurant in Casalarreina, Spain
Michelin-recognised Rioja cooking at mid-range prices.
A Michelin Plate restaurant inside a restored 17th-century wine cellar in rural La Rioja, La Vieja Bodega earns its recognition with consistent, technique-driven Rioja cooking at a €€ price point. The slow-cooked egg and braised oxtail are the anchors; the daily suggestions are where the menu gets interesting. Book one to two weeks ahead for weekends.
Picture a vaulted stone cellar, the kind that was built to age wine in the 1600s and has spent the last few centuries doing exactly that. La Vieja Bodega in Casalarreina has converted that space into a dining room, and the setting alone earns a detour. But the room is not the reason to book. The reason to book is that the kitchen uses that backdrop to deliver traditional Rioja cooking with enough precision and modern thinking to have earned a Michelin Plate in both 2024 and 2025. At a €€ price point, that combination is difficult to find anywhere in Spain, let alone in a village of a few hundred people.
Casalarreina sits in the Rioja Alta wine corridor, about thirty minutes west of Logroño. It is not a dining destination in the conventional sense, which is part of why La Vieja Bodega rewards the trip. The restaurant operates in a restored bodega on Avenida de La Rioja, and the dining rooms keep the original stonework and rustic materials visible throughout. The visual experience matters here: walking into those arched cellars frames the meal before you have ordered anything. If you have already visited once and found the room impressive, return knowing the food has earned the setting.
The menu follows a traditional Rioja structure with contemporary adjustments layered in through daily suggestions. Michelin's own notes on the venue single out two preparations: a slow-cooked egg and an oxtail that is stewed and then shredded, described as deliciously tender. Both dishes represent the kitchen's approach clearly: classic regional technique, applied slowly and carefully, with results that justify the patience. The daily suggestions are where the modern touches appear, and returning guests should treat those as the menu's most interesting section. The progression from regional staples through to the day's specials gives the meal a loose narrative arc, moving from the familiar to the more adventurous without abandoning Rioja's core ingredients and methods.
That tasting architecture, even in an à la carte format, is worth paying attention to. The slow-cooked egg as an opener signals where the kitchen's confidence lies: technique over decoration. The oxtail is a longer commitment, a dish that takes hours to prepare and rewards the diner who orders it. If you are returning after a first visit spent exploring the menu broadly, use this visit to build a more deliberate progression: start with the egg, follow with the oxtail, and use the daily suggestions to fill the space between.
At €€, La Vieja Bodega sits comfortably in the mid-range, which makes the Michelin recognition meaningful. You are not paying for a tasting menu at destination-restaurant prices; you are paying for a well-executed regional meal in a genuinely historic room. Google reviewers rate it 4.6 across more than 2,500 reviews, which at that volume reflects consistent execution rather than a lucky handful of exceptional evenings.
Booking is direct. La Vieja Bodega is not a restaurant that requires planning months in advance. For a weekend lunch during summer or autumn, when the Rioja Alta wine harvest brings more visitors to the area, booking one to two weeks ahead is sensible. Midweek and outside peak harvest season (late September through October), you have more flexibility, though given the Michelin recognition and the Google rating, calling ahead is always the safer approach. The restaurant does not publish a website or phone number in widely available directories, so the most reliable path is to visit in person or contact through local accommodation if you are staying nearby.
Reservations: Book one to two weeks ahead for weekends; more flexibility midweek and off-peak. Dress: Smart casual fits the rustic dining rooms well; the setting is historic but not formal. Budget: €€, which places it firmly in the mid-range for La Rioja; expect to eat well without the price pressure of a destination tasting menu. Getting there: Casalarreina is approximately 30 minutes west of Logroño by car; the village is small, and the restaurant is on the main avenue. Leading for: couples, small groups with an interest in Rioja cuisine, wine-trip itineraries, and anyone who wants a Michelin-recognised meal without a Michelin-starred price tag.
If you are building a day or weekend around this part of La Rioja, the restaurant works well as an anchor. For a full picture of what to eat, drink, and do in the area, see our full Casalarreina restaurants guide, our full Casalarreina wineries guide, our full Casalarreina hotels guide, our full Casalarreina bars guide, and our full Casalarreina experiences guide. For a contemporary alternative in Casalarreina, Lumbre takes a more modern approach to the region's ingredients. If traditional Rioja cooking interests you beyond this visit, Coto de Quevedo Evolución in Torre de Juan Abad operates in a similar traditional-with-modern-touches register, and Cave à Vin et à Manger, Maison Saint-Crescent in Narbonne offers an interesting comparison just across the French border for wine-region traditional cooking.
For context on where La Vieja Bodega fits within Spanish fine dining more broadly: the gap between a €€ Michelin Plate restaurant in rural La Rioja and the €€€€ destination restaurants that Spain is known for internationally is significant. If your trip allows for both registers, pairing a meal here with a table at Arzak in San Sebastián or Martin Berasategui in Lasarte-Oria gives a clear picture of how regional Spanish cooking scales from the deeply traditional to the technically ambitious. For the full range of what Spanish creative cooking looks like, see also El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Azurmendi in Larrabetzu, Mugaritz in Errenteria, DiverXO in Madrid, Quique Dacosta in Dénia, Cocina Hermanos Torres in Barcelona, Aponiente in El Puerto de Santa María, and Ricard Camarena in València. La Vieja Bodega is not competing with those rooms; it is doing something different and doing it consistently well.
Book La Vieja Bodega if you are in La Rioja and want a meal that reflects the region honestly, in a room that earns its atmosphere without manufacturing it. The Michelin Plate and the 4.6 Google rating across 2,500-plus reviews are not coincidences; they reflect a kitchen that has been delivering the same thing reliably for long enough to build a real reputation. At €€, the risk is low and the reward is high. If you are returning, build your order around the slow-cooked egg and the oxtail, and ask what the daily suggestions are before you finalise anything else.
| Venue | Cuisine | Price | Awards | Booking Difficulty | Value |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| La Vieja Bodega | Traditional Cuisine | €€ | A restaurant with a touch of charm? This one has it in spades; in fact... it has restored a beautiful 17th century wine cellar! Here they see gastronomy as a pleasure to be shared and that is their priority, always highlighting the goodness of Rioja cuisine. In their well-kept dining rooms, all with a rustic feel, they offer a traditional menu, with modern touches and interesting suggestions of the day. We particularly liked the slow-cooked egg and their deliciously tender oxtail, stewed and shredded!; Michelin Plate (2025); Michelin Plate (2024) | Easy | — |
| Quique Dacosta | Creative | €€€€ | Michelin 3 Star, World's 50 Best | Unknown | — |
| El Celler de Can Roca | Progressive Spanish, Creative | €€€€ | Michelin 3 Star, World's 50 Best | Unknown | — |
| Arzak | Modern Basque, Creative | €€€€ | Michelin 3 Star, World's 50 Best | Unknown | — |
| Azurmendi | Progressive, Creative | €€€€ | Michelin 3 Star, World's 50 Best | Unknown | — |
| Aponiente | Progressive - Seafood, Creative | €€€€ | Michelin 3 Star, World's 50 Best | Unknown | — |
A quick look at how La Vieja Bodega measures up.
One to two weeks ahead for weekend visits is a safe target. Midweek and off-peak slots tend to be more flexible. The restaurant holds a Michelin Plate for 2024 and 2025, which drives demand beyond what you might expect for a village address in La Rioja, so do not leave it to the day before a Saturday visit.
The dining rooms are described as rustic in feel, housed in a restored 17th-century wine cellar, so the setting is atmospheric rather than formal. Smart casual is a reasonable read: no need for a jacket, but this is a Michelin Plate restaurant and dressing down too far would feel out of place.
Casalarreina is a small village, so your realistic alternatives sit in the wider La Rioja region. For a step up in ambition and price, Azurmendi in the Basque Country is one comparison point, though it operates in an entirely different price bracket. Within La Rioja itself, the region has a number of well-regarded traditional restaurants; La Vieja Bodega stands apart by combining Michelin recognition with a genuinely mid-range price point at €€.
Yes, with the right expectations. The setting — a vaulted 17th-century wine cellar — does the atmospheric heavy lifting, and the Michelin Plate signals consistent kitchen quality. At €€, it will not strain a budget the way a tasting-menu destination would. It works well for a birthday or anniversary dinner where you want a memorable room and regional cooking rather than a long-form tasting experience.
No specific dietary policy is documented in the available venue data. The kitchen runs daily suggestions alongside its traditional menu, which suggests some flexibility, but you should check the venue's official channels before booking if dietary requirements are a firm condition. The cuisine type is listed as traditional, which in a Rioja context means meat and fish feature prominently.
No tasting menu is confirmed in the venue data. La Vieja Bodega operates a traditional menu with modern touches and daily suggestions, which implies an à la carte or set-menu format rather than a long-form tasting experience. If a tasting menu format is your priority, this is not the right booking.
At €€, yes. A Michelin Plate two years running in a restored 17th-century cellar at mid-range prices is good value by any measure. Michelin's own notes call out the slow-cooked egg and oxtail specifically, which signals the kitchen has dishes that justify the recognition. For a full high-end tasting experience, you would need to look elsewhere in the region, but for honest Rioja cooking in a room with genuine character, the price-to-quality ratio is strong.
Keep this venue in your Pearl passport, rate it after you visit, and track it alongside every other place you collect.
