Murano

Murano, Mayfair: The Verdict

Angela Hartnett's modern European cooking; shaped by her Italian heritage and a commitment to prime British ingredients; sits at the ££££ tier, which in Mayfair means you should expect to spend seriously. The question is whether it justifies that spend over nearby alternatives. The short answer: yes, if you want cooking of real assurance in a room that feels genuinely comfortable rather than performatively grand, no, if you need the theatre of a full tasting menu format.

The Room and the Mood

Murano is quiet in a way that few Mayfair restaurants manage. The lushly carpeted room, muted tones, pattern of rolling waves across the walls create an atmosphere designed for conversation rather than spectacle. Staff are attentive without being intrusive. If you have been once before, you already know that this is a room where the evening slows down pleasantly, not one that buzzes with the energy of a room trying to be seen. That is a deliberate choice, it works. For a second visit, it is worth booking specifically for dinner when the pace settles further, the room feels more cohesive at night than at lunch, when it can edge toward the corporate.

What to Order (and When)

Hartnett's menu is shaped by seasonal British produce alongside Italian-influenced preparations, the combination is more thoughtful than the description suggests. The kitchen rotates through prime materials, Dorset crab, Herdwick lamb, Scottish venison, partridge, so what you encounter will depend on the time of year. In autumn and winter, the game-forward dishes (venison with beetroot and pickled walnuts, partridge with cauliflower purée and pickled blackberries) are where the kitchen shows its depth. Spring and summer bring the lighter end: pasta preparations like pappa al pomodoro agnolotti and dishes built around British seafood.

If you have already visited and worked through the obvious choices, the menu structure rewards deeper exploration. The carte runs from a standard three courses to a six-course taster-like format depending on appetite, which gives returning diners a logical way to extend the experience without committing to a full tasting menu. The sweetbreads, crumbed and fried with carrot variations and toasted hazelnuts in a soy dressing, are a good test of the kitchen's confidence: it is a preparation that treats the ingredient seriously rather than softening it into something safer.

One dish that has remained constant across seasons: the Amalfi lemon tart. Caramelised, zesty, presented with confident simplicity, it is one of those rare desserts that earns its permanent status. On a return visit, do not skip it in favour of something new unless the seasonal alternatives are genuinely compelling. The mandarin soufflé, stuffed tableside with orange and Grand Marnier compote before pancake ice cream is added, is the seasonal showpiece dessert when available, worth ordering if you catch it on the menu.

Booking and Timing

Murano is a hard booking. At the ££££ level in Mayfair, demand is consistent year-round, peak periods (autumn game season, pre-Christmas, Valentine's period) tighten availability further. Plan a minimum of three to four weeks out for dinner, longer if you have a fixed date. Lunch is the more accessible entry point, with a fixed-price offering that gives you the kitchen's quality at a more manageable price point, useful context if this is a first visit or you are bringing someone who needs convincing on the spend. The restaurant is closed Sunday and Monday, so factor that into any weekend planning.

Pearl Picks at a Glance

• Return visit priority: Explore the six-course format rather than the standard three
• Seasonal timing: Autumn and early winter for the game menu; spring for the lighter pasta and seafood dishes
• Do not miss: Amalfi lemon tart, order it regardless of what else you choose
• Leading seat for a regular: Book dinner over lunch if atmosphere matters more than price

Practical Details

Murano is part of our full London restaurants guide. For more London planning, see our London hotels guide, London bars guide, London wineries guide, and London experiences guide.

Recognition and Standing

Murano is ranked #261 in Opinionated About Dining's Classical in Europe list for 2025 (it was ranked #195 in 2024). OAD's Classical list is a useful trust signal here: it tracks consistency and technique rather than novelty, which aligns with what Murano actually delivers. A ranking in this list alongside venues like The Fat Duck in Bray, L'Enclume in Cartmel, Moor Hall in Aughton, Gidleigh Park in Chagford, Hand and Flowers in Marlow, and hide and fox in Saltwood places it firmly in the tier of serious, technically grounded cooking. For international context, it sits in a comparable register to Le Bernardin in New York City and Atomix in New York City in terms of the type of diner it rewards, those who prioritise precision and restraint over spectacle.