45 Jermyn St

Should You Book 45 Jermyn St?

Getting a table here is easier than you might expect for a Michelin Plate-recognised address in the heart of St James's. Bookings are moderately competitive, not a monthly scramble, which means this is one of central London's more accessible all-day brasseries operating at this standard. The harder question is whether it deserves your attention at all; and the answer, for the right occasion, is yes.

45 Jermyn St sits within Fortnum & Mason's orbit but operates with its own entrance on Jermyn Street and its own identity. It replaced the much-loved Fortnum's Fountain, that legacy is still visible in the dessert menu: ice cream coupes, floats, a knickerbocker glory that feel less like nostalgia and more like deliberate positioning. The kitchen has moved forward while keeping the touches that made the Fountain feel like a London institution worth preserving.

The Room and the Bar

The visual case for booking is made the moment you walk in. Striking red banquettes run through a high-ceilinged room, the centrepiece is a large marble-topped bar, the lighting sits at the brightness level that actually lets you see your food and your guests without squinting. It is smart without requiring a tie, dressed without feeling stiff. For a business lunch or a celebratory dinner in this part of London, the room does a great deal of the work for you.

The marble bar is worth your attention beyond its looks. The cocktail menu here is genuinely considered, not a generic list of classics dressed up with house names, the by-the-glass wine selection is backed by a sommelier whose advice is reportedly worth taking. If you are sitting two, the bar seats are the sharpest angle in the room: you get the energy of the space, a front-row view of the drinks program, the kind of loosely theatrical service that suits a first date or a celebration drink that extends into dinner. Note that wine mark-ups are on the high side, so let the sommelier steer you rather than defaulting to a bottle you recognise.

What to Eat

Menu covers more ground than a traditional brasserie would risk. The British classics are the anchor: steak tartare, Dover sole meunière, calf's liver with onions and bacon. These are the dishes to order if you want to understand what the kitchen can do, both the beef Wellington and the lobster spaghetti are finished tableside, which adds a layer of occasion that the room already earns.

But the menu also pushes outward. Venison and mushroom dumplings with bone broth, ginger and chilli sit alongside oscietra caviar and Scotch woodcock. An artichoke and golden beetroot salad with cashew-nut ricotta and tiger's milk reads as the kind of modern addition that could feel incongruous but apparently does not. The kitchen's ability to hold European and British registers simultaneously, without the menu feeling incoherent, is the thing the Michelin Plate recognises. Desserts lean into the Fountain heritage: the knickerbocker glory and chai-spiced custard tart with yoghurt and honey sorbet are both worth ordering.

Special Occasions and Business Meals

For a special occasion in SW1, 45 Jermyn St is a more considered choice than it first appears. The tableside theatre on the beef Wellington and lobster spaghetti gives the meal moments of event without requiring a tasting menu format. The room is celebratory without being loud. It opens all day, every day, which means it works for a breakfast meeting, a long business lunch, or a proper dinner; a flexibility that most of its competitors at this price point cannot match.

If you are comparing it to the Fortnum & Mason dining room upstairs, the answer is direct: this is the better meal at a comparable price, with a more serious drinks program and a kitchen that is operating with more ambition. For other Traditional British options around London, Marksman and The Devonshire both offer strong cooking at lower price points, but neither gives you the room or the tableside service. If you want something more relaxed in a similar vein, Bob Bob Ricard Soho has the theatrics and the champagne button, but the food is not at the same level. For British cooking with more creative ambition outside London, Hand and Flowers in Marlow and Moor Hall in Aughton are the references to beat.

Practical Details

Reservations: Moderate difficulty; book at least one to two weeks out for weekday dinners, further ahead for weekend evenings. Open all day, every day, so breakfast and weekday lunch are lower-friction options. Dress: Smart casual; the room is dressed but not formal, no tie required, but trainers would feel out of place. Budget: £££ per head; wine mark-ups are high, so factor that into your calculation. Location: 45 Jermyn St, London SW1Y 6DN, own entrance on Jermyn Street, separate from the main Fortnum & Mason store entrance. Awards: Michelin Plate 2025.

For more dining options across the city, see our full London restaurants guide. If you are planning a broader visit, our London hotels guide, bars guide, and experiences guide cover the rest. For British cooking worth travelling further for, The Fat Duck in Bray, L'Enclume in Cartmel, and Gidleigh Park in Chagford are the longer-trip benchmarks.